Ouzeri Karayiannis
In the Athens Central Market (Varvaikos) on Athinas Street you will find both fish monger and butcher and the spice and nut vendors are facing Athinas Street. Many markets around the world these days have been transformed into over-priced culinary meccas for upmarket foodies and chefs. See Essex Street Market and Chelsea Market in New York City. The market in Athens is the exception to the rule. It is wall to wall vendors that cater to the common folk and the few restaurants and cafeterias on the periphery of the market are a testament to this. However, there is one place that is located right in the belly of the beast that is worth the visit. It’s called Ouzeri Karayiannis and it’s a lone wolf. It’s a small hole in the wall about three meters wide by 5 meters deep with mismatched chairs and re-purposed kegs into stools lined up outside. There isn’t a menu to peruse, a wine list to select your vintage, and I don’t think there is anything non-alcoholic available. This is a bar that opens early in the morning to accommodate the many fish mongers and butchers that have arrived before first light. The idea to put a bar in the market is pretty sound. The butcher and fishmonger that have arrived to work at 4am has already had their morning coffee so they are primed for their first drink and snack by 8am. There’s a steady flow of workers coming and going here throughout the day.
The gentleman who runs this fine establishment is named Kostas and I can confidently say we’re pretty good buds. His wife’s uncle is our neighbor in Sivota which makes us homies. I come here for the tsipouro and what I like to call the Greek Surf & Turf. Tsipouro is a strong distilled spirit made from the pomace of the crushed grapes. Tsipouro is from Epirus. It’s perfect sipping with food. Other variations of tsipouro include tsikoudia (raki) from Crete, and they put anise (not good) in the tsipouro from Macedonia. As for the Surf & Turf, his repertoire includes only two items. You can choose either the meat or seafood plate. The drinks list is pretty limited to tap beer, ouzo, tsipouro, and wine. I can’t quote you on the price since he always throws in a few drinks on the house. Definitely worth a visit in the morning.
